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Luxury Briefing: ‘Clients have paused on purchases,' as Middle East conflict slows mall traffic

In this week’s Luxury Briefing, I speak to experts and luxury fashion sources about the impact of the war on luxury shopping in the Middle East. Also, a final buyer’s take on Paris Fashion Week as the show season wraps up, and news to know from Nina Ricci and GIII. For tips or comments, email me at zofia@glossy.coJust as the final shows of Paris Fashion Week wrapped on Wednesday, images of new-to-store pieces from Chanel began circulating on social media. For Gab Waller, the Sydney-based luxury...
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Why vintage sellers are taking resale live

Vintage resale has long been dominated by static product listings, with carefully photographed garments uploaded to marketplaces where they often sit for weeks waiting for the right buyer.But sellers are now experimenting with livestream sales to showcase rare items and create urgency around one-of-a-kind pieces.Stephania Garcia, who runs the vintage resale channel House of Costura on live-selling platform Whatnot, auctions Y2K dresses, archival handbags and embellished evening gowns several tim...
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Luxury Briefing: As cashmere spreads downmarket, luxury brands update their approach

For this week’s Luxury Briefing, I spoke to the CEO and creative director of Agnona Stefano Aimone about the brand’s new flagship store and material innovations. Also, insights on the relaunch of Robert Marc, a buyer’s take on Dior and news to know. For tips or comments, email me at zofia@glossy.coAt Milan Fashion Week, Agnona presented a collection centered on tactile materials like shearling, wool and technical cashmere. The show was well-timed, with the company preparing to open a new flagshi...
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A buyer’s take on Milan Fashion Week, with Bloomingdale’s Marissa Galante Frank

This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →Subscribe: Apple Podcasts • SpotifyOn this week’s Milan Fashion Week edition of the Glossy Podcast, senior fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska is joined by Marissa Galante Frank, fashion director at Bloomingdale’s, for a buyer’s perspective on the Fall 2026 collections.The week included major creative director debuts a...
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On takes aim at Lululemon with proof-first leggings strategy

As Lululemon worked to contain fallout from its second, January 2026 see-through leggings controversy, On moved into the category with a $120 pair of SenseTec tights. The product boasted the brand’s biggest material innovation for 2026.In January, Lululemon paused online sales of its newly launched, $108 Get Low leggings in North America after widespread complaints that the fabric was not squat-proof. Videos demonstrating the transparency issues quickly circulated on social media. Founder Chip W...
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Creator marketing is becoming a loyalty play

Influencer marketing is being rebuilt in real time as loyalty programs and affiliates are starting to merge.In early February, American Eagle launched its revamped AE Creator Community, a centralized platform where anyone with at least 1,000 followers can apply to receive products, complete challenges, earn commission, and collect points redeemable for cash or merchandise. This follows a similar move by Gap Inc., which in October introduced a creator affiliate and advocacy hub spanning its Old N...
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Luxury Briefing: Joseph returns to the London Fashion Week runway amid a different fashion economy

For this week’s Luxury Briefing, I spoke with Joseph CEO Barbara Campos about the brand’s reentry into London Fashion Week, following years of financial repair and product discipline. The brand arrives at a moment when the middle of the luxury market is redefining its place, as customers shop for quality. Also, designers from Mithridate and Labrum London talk distribution, and a Harrods buyer weighs in on Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi in Milan. For tips or comments, email me at zofia@glossy.coJose...
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A buyer’s take on London Fashion Week, with Mytheresa’s Tiffany Hsu

This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →Subscribe: Apple Podcasts • SpotifyOn this week’s London Fashion Week edition of the Glossy Podcast, senior fashion reporter Zofia Zwieglinska is joined by Tiffany Hsu, chief buying director at Mytheresa, for a buyer’s perspective on the Fall 2026 collections.The event’s highlights included a confident, outerwear-led...
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Jewlery has a London Fashion Week moment amid gold and silver pricing concerns

As gold and silver prices have fluctuated sharply over the past year, independent jewelers have had to make quick decisions about pricing, margins and messaging. Now, they’re using London Fashion Week to showcase their covetable styles and communicate industry value and stability. Toby Vernon, founder of 5-year-old jewelry company The Ouze, said changes in materials prices have not slowed demand for the company’s products. Instead, they have sharpened how it talks about value. The Ouze produces...
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Luxury Briefing: How 2 designers weighed the costs vs. the benefits of an NYFW show

In this week’s Luxury Briefing, a look at the brand strategies behind Simkhai’s and PatBo’s show formats at New York Fashion Week, as well as data on the NYFW styles inspiring shoppers. Also, the most important takeaways from the Moncler earnings and news to know. For tips or comments, contact me at zofia@glossy.co.According to accessible luxury designers Jonathan Simkhai of Simkhai and Patricia Bonaldi of PatBo — both of whom have been mainstays on the New York Fashion Week calendar — participa...
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The NYFW Rundown: Spectacle, sparsity and insights into American fashion

This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →Subscribe: Apple Podcasts • SpotifyOn this episode of the Glossy Podcast, we recap New York Fashion Week Fall 2026 by breaking down the defining themes of the season. Senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi is joined by Glossy international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff, alongside special gue...
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The Knot joins OpenAI’s ChatGPT ad test as brands rethink AI visibility

As OpenAI tests ads in ChatGPT, companies like The Knot are experimenting with conversational placements and AI-native discovery.This month, OpenAI officially entered the advertising business. “Today, we’re beginning to test ads in ChatGPT in the U.S.,” the company wrote in a blog post on February 9. The test will be visible to logged-in adult users on OpenAI’s Free and Go tiers, while Plus, Pro, Business, Enterprise and Education users will not see ads. For marketers, the change offers an oppor...
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Luxury Briefing: Susan Alexandra is moving uptown as luxury shoppers get more selective

For this week’s Luxury Briefing, I chatted with Susan Korn, founder of jewelry brand Susan Alexandra, about the brand’s experience-focused new store, located on Madison Avenue and opening on Friday. Also, a look at Farfetch’s Lunar New Year brand partnership strategy, a luxury earnings recap and news to know. For tips or comments, you can reach me at zofia@glossy.co.As New York Fashion Week unfolds, much of the luxury conversation is focused on the very top of the market. But on Madison Avenue,...
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Legacy skin-care brands are restructuring PDPs to stay visible in GEO AI search

At a Glossy AI Marketing Strategies event held on February 11, executives from legacy skin-care brands made one thing clear: Traditional SEO playbooks are no longer enough.Speaking at Oasis Assembly, Dawn Hilarczyk, COO of Borghese, and Hillary Hutcheson, CMO of RoC Skincare, outlined how their teams are adapting to generative engine optimization, or GEO, as AI-driven search increasingly shapes product discovery.Borghese, a more than 70-year-old Italian skin-care brand known for its Fango mud tr...
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Confessions of a former Saks designer: 'If your retail partner is knocking you off, that’s a red flag’

Years before department store relationships became a public flashpoint, designer and independent brand owner Hadley Pollet said she saw the warning signs and chose to leave the distribution channel. Pollet is the founder of the 15-year-old Hadley Pollet brand, a luxury accessories and apparel brand known for its handcrafted details, proprietary trims and small-batch production. According to Pollet, the brand prioritizes craftsmanship, customization and long-term customer relationships over scale...
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J.Crew bets on scarcity with The Rollneck Remix designer collaboration pop-up

For a brand with more than 100 stores nationwide, choosing not to use them is an unexpected move.That was the case with J.Crew’s launch of The Rollneck Remix — a New York Fashion Week–timed collaboration with five emerging designers — exclusively through a four-day pop-up at 75 Spring Street and online, bypassing its broader retail fleet.The project invited Buci NYC, Collina Strada, Eckhaus Latta, Patrick Taylor and Tanner Fletcher to reinterpret J.Crew’s 38-year-old Rollneck sweater, a silhouet...
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Wolf & Badger is positioning itself as an anti-Saks to brands seeking new sales channels

For much of the last decade, independent fashion brands could scale with little more than a Shopify site and a social following. But that model is breaking down. Tariffs, tighter enforcement of de minimis rules and the collapse of once-reliable retail partners are pushing brands toward platforms that can shoulder operational complexities. That includes Wolf & Badger, a 16-year-old marketplace focused on emerging designers.The U.K.-based marketplace now receives 300-400 inquiries per month from b...
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Luxury Briefing: Brunello Cucinelli thinks keyword search is holding luxury back

For this week’s Luxury Briefing, I sat down with Francesco Bottiglieri, chief of humanistic technology at Brunello Cucinelli, at the inaugural Shoptalk Luxe to get an inside look at the new Brunello Cucinelli AI-driven website. He broke down why most luxury websites no longer reflect how customers actually shop and how Brunello Cucinelli is trying to change that. Also, a look at the rise of experiences at luxury auctions and the latest Q4 Lyst report, as well as news to know. For tips or comment...
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Puma is fueling engagement and community feedback with an AI platform centered on co-creation 

Puma is successfully leveraging community co-creation to learn from and engage its shopper base.In January, Puma relaunched its AI Creator platform. First introduced in 2024, AI Creator is Puma’s generative AI platform that enables fans to co-create official football kits with the brand. The second iteration of the AI-powered kit design experience allowed users to submit design-based entries, with one winning design becoming the French football club Olympique de Marseille’s official 2027–2028 th...
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Luxury Briefing: Inside LMVH's 'quiet opulence' jewelry brand, as jewelry outpaces luxury

In this week’s Luxury Briefing, I spoke to Repossi CEO Anne de Vergeron at Shoptalk Luxe in Abu Dhabi about the brand’s design- and art-led growth. Also, a look behind the scenes at what is working for luxury brands in creator marketing. Plus, executive moves at On Holding, news to know about Alexander McQueen and Saks Off Fifth, and a new podcast episode on the 2016 trend. For tips or comments, email me at zofia@glossy.co.Fine jewelry has emerged as one of the clearest success stories in luxury...
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As AI catches on across luxury, brands double down on emotional value

As artificial intelligence becomes embedded within luxury operations, from marketing and personalization to inventory and clienteling, brands are increasingly doubling down on what technology cannot replicate: emotional connection.Over the past decade, luxury has relentlessly optimized for ROI, investing heavily in data, CRM systems and performance marketing. And at Shoptalk Luxe, vendors and brands alike described deeper AI integration than ever before, with automation now underpinning everythi...
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How Miu Miu Beauty used AI to ensure a successful launch

As beauty brands continue to race toward AI adoption, Miu Miu Beauty is prioritizing restraint in how — and where — the technology shows up.That’s according to the brand’s chief digital officer, Tiffany James, speaking at Shoptalk Luxe this week. James said that, after the brand’s digital team was formed in early 2025, following L’Oréal Luxe’s acquisition of the Miu Miu beauty license in 2024, it wasted no time in embracing AI. “We started using AI pretty immediately, but more for internal proce...
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LVMH doubles down on Tiffany and Loro Piana, plays the long game through luxury’s slowdown

LVMH closed 2025 with revenue of “just over €80 billion” (approximately $87 billion) and operating free cash flow of €11.3 billion ($12.3 billion), up 8% year over year, despite slightly negative organic growth and a sharp currency headwind. “The results of the group are solid in a rather challenging, disrupted climate,” chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault said on the company’s January 27 earnings call. “2026 won’t be simple either,” he added.“LVMH seems to make the most of the difficult market env...
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Luxury Briefing: Inside Burberry's outerwear-led recovery

In this week’s Luxury Briefing, a look at why outerwear and not reinvention is powering Burberry’s recovery. Plus, Revolve’s bet on physical retail, a Bottega Veneta exec moves to Moncler, Kering’s new C-suite appointment and the latest news to know. For tips or comments, email me at zofia@glossy.co. And if you are in Abu Dhabi for Shoptalk Luxe next week, say hi! I will be on the ground covering the big conversations in stories and social posts.After several years of repositioning under the Bur...
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